Journal Eat & drink

A first-timer's food crawl through Funchal

Espetada, bolo do caco and poncha — a perfect afternoon in Funchal, mapped stop by stop.

Funchal market
In this guide

You can eat your way across Funchal in an afternoon, and it’s one of the best things to do on a cloudy day when the peaks are socked in. Here’s a route that hits the essentials without doubling back.

Start at the market

Begin at the Mercado dos Lavradores. Wander the fruit stalls, try a slice of anona (custard apple) or passion fruit, and watch the fishmongers fillet jet-black espada downstairs.

Bolo do caco, the right way

Find a spot serving bolo do caco fresh off the griddle — a flat sweet-potato bread, split and slathered with garlic-parsley butter. It’s the island’s universal snack and the bar for everything else.

The main event: espetada

For lunch, order espetada — chunks of beef rubbed with garlic and bay, skewered on a laurel stick and grilled over wood. It arrives hanging from a hook at your table. Pair it with milho frito, crispy cubes of fried cornmeal.

Finish with poncha

End in the old town with a glass of poncha — sugarcane spirit, honey and citrus, mixed with a wooden caralhinho. The traditional version is lemon; ask for passion fruit if you want it softer.

Map it in Wander Madeira

The full crawl — five stops, walking times between them, and which places skip the tourist mark-up — is saved as a ready-made plan in the app.